ALOHA ALL OVER THE PLACE

CruiseMates' talented team of researchers, almost 120 strong, recently returned from a fact-finding mission in the Hawaiian Islands aboard Celebrity's Summit. At least half of the official party chose to land on Oahu a day or more early to rest up from long flights and start dipping into the Aloha spirit. The luckiest ones used an Internet site and found a tres luxe beachfront hotel for less than $100 per night.

Aloha Tower

Many cruisers, using the Internet or phoning, booked rental cars in advance. The price is right (less than $50 per day) and all the major agencies have outposts on almost all the islands. Oahu was a cinch, the car rental places are right there at the Honolulu airport so one person can corral the baggage while the other picks up the wheels. This approach also works in reverse, dropping passengers and bags at the Aloha Tower terminal, then one person returns the car.

Streets and roads in the islands are well-marked, but the names can be confusing. We were tempted to import the cast of Wheel of Fortune and ask to purchase a few consonants.

Hint: Make sure to print out your confirmation number for the car rental AND determine exactly where you are to pick up the car and how you're going to get there.

Map of Waikiki

Your best friend, particularly in the Waikiki area, is a map. Your second best friend is a plan before you drive, as we discovered after an hour's drive to a restaurant that was a 15-minute walk from our hotel. The lesson was indelibly inscribed during our return journey when six people were busily accusing the other five of sitting on the map. The culprit was eventually identified and chastised.

How bad was it? The person riding "shotgun" turned to the back seat folks and queried, "How many brain-dead cruisers does it take to find a hotel?"

The answer was quickly supplied by the driver. "Obviously, one more than we've got."

Arizona Memorial at Pearl Harbor

It's also possible to get lost on foot, as this reporter discovered to the tune of an $8 cab ride after a shopping orgy on the main drag while the rest of the gang were soaking up naval history at the U.S.S. Arizona site. The history buffs just jumped into the rental minivan and drove to the Memorial where admission is free. The "official" shore excursion was $53 per person.

The streets are almost all one-way - the wrong way - and cabs and parking are expensive. The fee to park for the "Dinner of the Lost Souls" was $14.

What Whale?

A rental car, plus a map and good directions, was worth its weight in whales when four of us drove an hour to board a charter boat and spent a blissful few hours in the company of humpbacks and dolphins, hosted by two marine biologists. We found the charter on, of course, the Internet.

Sampling the delights of the ports was cruiser heaven. Hawaii has long been a delicious destination and the ports are cruiser/user friendly. Everybody speaks English and the US dollar is, obviously, the local currency.

At each port, Celebrity offered a "best of" tour that bussed folks around to all the high spots - and the requisite "shopportunity." These tours are terrific for first-time visitors and even "been there, done that" cruisers who've visited several times before can find plenty to enjoy and, very likely, discover something they'd missed. The single-unit cost for one of these tours, however, almost equals the cost of a rental car.

Unlike other destinations where there are requisite "must-do" activities, the Hawaiian Islands are gloriously "do it yourself" and the Internet is the place for research.

It's not hard to find shopportunities on the islands. There's an "ABC" store on almost every corner, and sometimes one in the middle of the block. The ABC people take convenience stores to a new level. Need rum? Need Band-Aids? Need a post card to send home? ABC's got them. And stamps, too.

Then there's Hilo Hattie's -- an ever-constant presence throughout the islands. Hattie does get around and she offers cruisers a dandy benefit. When ships call in, Hattie's shuttles (to the store, of course) are right there at the pier or tender debarkment. You get a nice (free) ride, often with a chatty driver who offers up little nuggets of local interest. If you spend more than $25 with Hattie, you receive a dandy coffee mug, a nice souvenir.

Another constant presence is Wal-Mart. If you forgot undies, need razor blades, or just want to add another Aloha shirt to your collection, you're set. (Hint: when I felt the need for yet another Aloha shirt, Wal-Mart provided exactly what I wanted for less than half the price Hattie asked for a similar one.)

Worlds Largest Banyon Tree

The shining star of Hawaii ports, if you just want to wander, is Lahaina (Maui) where we spent two days. The Lahaina folks have been doing tourists for years. After you start seeing triple Aloha shirts (this should take about 15 minutes), Cheeseburger in Paradise offers welcome respite, a fabulous view of the harbor, and a great casual menu.

Haleakala Crater on Maui

For people-watching and catching up with companions who have gone missing, the outdoor area of the saloon just across from the world's largest Banyan tree is the place to be.

Car rental outlets on Maui got a workout with some disappointed cruisers unable to rent a last-minute car. We engineered a daring car- swap with another couple to drive to the top of the Haleakala crater.

(Hint: rent cars together and put one person from each pairing on as an extra driver and settle up later.)

One group rented a convertible to do the "Road to Hana" on their own and pronounced it "awesome" and "breathtaking." Of course, the cruise line also offers shore excursions for those who aren't quite ready to do it on their own.

Not surprising, there is a wealth of activities in, on, near and under the water from just beaching it to SCUBA, SNUBA, snorkeling, chartering boats or renting water toys.

(Hint: If you're diving from a tender port on a self-organized outing, make sure you know what the tender schedule is!)

Kilauea Lava Flow on the Big Island

There's also adventure in the air. "Flightseeing" by helicopter, though pricey, was the highlight of many of the team's vacations. We chose Hilo to spend the many monies by buzzing an active volcano and marveling at the white surf lashing the black shore, but saved about half by booking it ourselves over the Internet as against the ship's trip price.

The main caveat of freelancing is, always, the fear that if the rental car breaks down or you get caught in traffic, you could miss the ship. Always build in extra time.

Possibly the cruelest blow of all is finding an ad magazine in port shouting, "150 Things To Do On [Island]." They're everywhere.

In keeping with that theme,

Aloha

there's only one thing wrong with cruising the islands. Not enough time. Think of perusing the grand chocolate buffet and then being told that you can only have one chocolate truffle. Of course, I'd take the truffle . but I'd want more.

Aloha, Hawaii. I honored the long-held tradition and tossed my lei overboard as we left Hilo. I'll be back for more macadamia nuts.

Mahalo.