Meridian - A Memoir

by Pamela Kane

"Am I really going to like this?"

"You're going to love it."

"You're sure?"

Meridian
Happy birthday. My husband was taking me on our first cruise vacation. In my mind, cruising was a blend of old black-and-white movies and scenes from Loveboat on television. I knew I wasn't going to meet Gopher, he'd returned to my home state of Iowa to become The Honorable Fred Grandy, representing my mom, among several thousand others, in the U.S. Congress. Never mind Mom thought he was her own private property.

Shuffling along an endless line, dragging bags, in the hot, steamy New York Port Authority building was not an auspicious start to the romantic dream vacation I envisioned. The champagne we swilled on the two-hour limo ride took a bit of the edge off, but I'd imagined being delivered to a festively-decked gangway with highly-starched officers saluting us and offering still more champagne as we boarded.

There was champagne in our stateroom. Our stateroom with twin beds.

"So far, I don't like this."

"Just wait."

The wait was worth it. As we steamed out of New York harbor, champagne flutes in hand, the ship's horn saluted the Statue of Liberty with four long blasts. I fell in love again. This time with 30,000 tons of steel, brass, mahogany and teak.

We were younger then!
Our first formal night on the Meridian

They say you never forget your first kiss. The elegant, graceful Meridian kissed me hello that sultry, gritty July afternoon, beginning a romance that continued through six sailings until I kissed her goodbye on her next-to-last voyage under the "X" of Chandris/Celebrity. I didn't know how much I loved her until she met a fiery and untimely death off the coast of Malaysia and came to her final rest beneath the seas she graced for so long.

When Meridian and I met on our blind date, I didn't know her history. 
Meridian's Builder's Plaque
Builder's Plaque
She first sailed as the Galileo Galilei of the prestigious Lloyd Triestino line, plying the seas from the Mediterranean to Africa and Australia. In 1977, her exotic port list included Malaga, Genoa, Naples, Port Said, Djibuti, Durban, Fremantle, Sydney, Aukland, Noumea, Tahiti and Acapulco. By the time she and I came together, she was on the summer run to Bermuda and lazed about the Caribbean in winter, suitably dignified itineraries for such a stately matron of the waves.

In her first incarnation, she carried First Class passengers in search of luxury adventures in less than 50 cabins on her top passenger deck, A. The rest of her 1600 passengers, mostly immigrants to new lands in search of a new life, traveled in Tourist class, packed in tiny four-berth cabins on C, D, E, and F decks, with a few crammed in fore and aft on B deck. Compared to the heavy-laden vessels which hailed in at Ellis Island at the turn of the Century, G. Galalei offered incomparable comfort.

Not hard to get lost here
Only on the Meridian could you go down to the upper deck
If mystery keeps romance alive, Meridian had me in her spell. In six cruises, I never did figure out her stairways, remnants of the days when she was a two-class ship, which survived her mid-life beauty treatment.  A stretch here, a nip and tuck there, she ended up several feet longer and carried a passenger complement of 1200. The bidets in the top-class cabins were gone, but now nobody had to share a bathroom.

Over our years together, I never failed to glory in the first at-sea day on the way to Bermuda. Pink sand beaches,
Meridian docked at Kings Wharf Bermuda
Meridian at the Royal Naval Dockyard (Kings Wharf) in Bermuda
breathtaking views on heart-stopping , bottom-bruising scooter excursions, and the lazy ferry ride from the Royal Naval Dockyard - specially brought back to life to accommodate Meridian's ocean-going draught - to downtown Hamilton for shopping and a taste of Gosling's Black Seal rum could wait.  Like old lovers, Meridian and I held each other close in reunion. Even though I cheated a bit with other ships, Meridian was my sentimental favorite, sailing her to Bermuda my touchstone sentimental journey.

Meridian always indulged another great passion, food. Michele Roux' Celebrity cuisine always tasted better on Meridian than on her larger fleetmates. I carried a minor grudge when quail pate was taken off the dinner menu and would surely have mutinied if the signature swan pastries disappeared. A gracious hostess, she invited us to linger over dinner, finishing off a bottle of good red wine, nibbling on fruit and cheese, talking about the day just past. My husband, connoisseur of such things, still contends that Meridian had the best Lido Burgers afloat.

The long alle of the Palm Court was the perfect place for a quiet sunset cocktail. After dinner, the whole world passed in review as we savored decadent brandy alexanders in the Redezvous Lounge. We dined with a succession of Captains, each more charming than the last - each proud to be the Master of Meridian and visibly pleased when asked about the lady under his care.

The lady comported herself well. Even in heavy seas, outrunning an oncoming hurricane, she never faltered. Middle age, as ships go, suited Meridian. Her brass gleamed, her brightwork dazzled, her teak decks glowed from years of careful maintenance. She was never without her makeup of smart, new paint.

Time came, too soon, to say goodbye to Meridian and the rich store of magic memories we'd collected together. In the summer of 1997, we learned she'd been sold and was soon to go to Singapore to sail under her third owner's flag. Ironically, we were just back from two weeks' cruising from Singapore to Hong Kong and had a fifteen-day Panama Canal cruise coming up bare weeks after her last scheduled sailing. She must have known that I was going to stand her up that year in favor of more exotic itineraries on newer, more enticing ladies of the sea. She brooked no nonsense. We booked passage.

Mom's on the left in blue.
Andy
Mom's companion Bernice, Me, Mom
The old girls on our last trip on the Old Girl
Sentimentality obviously won the day, so we hit on the idea of sharing Meridian with another very special, though land-locked, lady - my mother - as chaperone on our last date. Rising 85, Mom had never been on a cruise, never expected to go on one. Her "firsts" on Meridian were my "lasts." Seeing both of my beloved old gals together made the farewells sweeter.

I didn't look back as I came down Meridan's gangplank for the last time. Mom did. "Wait until I tell Gopher about this!"


On Friday, May 20, 1999, after many years of service under three owners' flags, Galileo Galilei/Meridian/Sun Vista caught fire and sank in one of the world's busiest shipping lanes, the Strait of Malacca. All passengers and crew survived.


Sources: Reuters News Service, 1998 Sun Cruises Brochure, 1997 Celebrity Cruises catalog, 1977 Lloyd-Triestino brochure or catalog (photocopy) obtained from Armand Mantia <Amantia@prodigy.net>

First published in Porthole Magazine, December 1999. Copyright 1999 Pamela Kane